The Narooma Oyster Festival is two months away but oyster farmers are keeping a close eye on their crop for the Sydney Royal Aquaculture Competition in March.
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Hosted by the Royal Agricultural Society of NSW, the awards are in their 17th year, as is the Narooma Oyster Festival.
The competition winners are showcased at the Narooma festival's Ultimate Oyster Experience, one of the premium events that sell out within hours.
Mark Harris of Harris Oysters has only farmed oysters for five years but won silver in the 2022 and 2023 Sydney competitions and both times got the highest score in the Wagonga Inlet.
Competition helps farmers, consumers
The former environmental scientist sees many benefits to entering the competition.
The judges provide extensive notes on how the oysters rate on the ten evaluation criteria.
"My results showed flavour and taste were well into gold level but consistency of shape let me down a bit," Mr Harris said.
The competition provides quality assuredness and a standard against which growers can compare themselves against others, plus it is great for marketing.
"The Sydney Royal is good for the profile because of the people involved like [ABC radio presenter] Simon Marnie and John Susman [Australia's leading seafood authority].
"The judges are very strict so if you score well there you have a premium product and can charge a premium price."
The Sydney Royal helps consumers identify the top produce and the farmers who do well in the competition are pretty consistent, another win for consumers.
Location undeniably important
Mr Harris rents his area from other growers which is quite common and a big commitment.
"A lot of your underlying costs are the same as a bigger producer," he said.
Like all farming "it really is hard work".
"It certainly isn't glamorous and you are in the shed a lot of the time, not the water."
He said he is open-minded, ready to give different things a go and not too influenced by the old way of doing things but "it is undeniable the location is important".
"The prize winers tend to come from Merimbula, Pambula, Nelson Lake, Wapengo and Wagonga," Mr Harris said.
Tasting tips
To appreciate oysters at a deeper level, Mr Harris recommends eating them plain, without even lemon juice.
Try oysters from different estuaries because they differ in taste just like wine and cheese from different regions.
Mature oysters fully fill the shell and any black spots indicate there is no roe so the oyster will taste more fishy.
Oysters in the best condition will be creamy.
Mr Harris sells 'nuggets', small ones in deep shells that are in top condition.
Above all, "eat as soon as possible after opening so learn to open them".